Sunday, January 29, 2012

JOËL DURAND SENDS US CHOCOLATES

Second of a two-part article.

These chocolates are so delicious that most people say, 'They are to die for.' I would say, 'They are to live for.' Hope for a good long life, so you can try every one.  

--My mother, 80-something


C'est arrivé. The chocolates arrived just in time for my mother's birthday. They were carefully packed with the knowledge that they would be traveling far from Saint-Remy-de-Provence and they arrived in perfect condition.


Regular readers of The Modern Trobadors may recall that, last week, I wrote about my favorite chocolates in Provence: Joël Durand's L'Alphabet des Saveurs. We have been to this renown chocolatier’s small, rather unassuming shop in the Provençal town St. Remy many times but had never ordered them. In August, when we last dropped by to pick up chocolates, the sales associate reminded us of this option as she packed our tall stack of boxes that would soon be squeezed into our suitcases to cross the Atlantic.


"It just takes two days," she said, "and depending on your travel plans, the chocolates may arrive in better shape."

Freshness is key to enjoying these luscious squares of chocolates. They should be enjoyed right away and, according to Durand, never past three weeks.  In our family, a Durand chocolate has never waited three weeks to be eaten, so I wouldn't know what it would taste like.  My advice is that short of eating them in the shop or in the car on the way home, they should be eaten right away, when they are their freshest and tastiest.

It was my mother's birthday, she loves Durand's chocolates, so we thought it was a wonderful occasion to place an order and see how it goes.

The first step is to visit their website: http://www.joel-durand-chocolatier.fr/ . (Make sure you use this link because there is 2nd store website that does not allow USA orders!) There you can view your options for box size (number of chocolates) and flavors. We knew we wanted the 48-piece box because it was the right size for the small crowd descending on my mother for her birthday. Also, it is important to note that the minimum cost for shipping to the States is 20 euros, which is for packages under a kilo. A box of 48 chocolates costs 32 euros and weighs 0.6 kilos, for a total of 52 euros.



Orders placed outside of France can be placed via the website but it is not always reliable (as we discovered). If you are having problems with the website, orders can be placed on the telephone (from USA, dial 011 33 4 90 92 38 25). My husband, who is blessed with fluent French and whose gift it was to my mother, made the call. But, he learned that the two women who take the orders both speak English fluently; so it is not necessary to speak French.

Although one can place an order at any time during business hours, all orders are filled and packaged between 9:30 a.m. and 12:30 p.m. (French time) for the 12:30 p.m. FedEx pick-up.

Plan on two days for the trip across the Atlantic, not counting Sundays. For example, my husband placed the order on Friday for a Monday processing and they arrived on Wednesday afternoon in southern California.

Although my husband did not catch the name of the young woman who took his order, he did learn that she is a student and an ardent lover of Durand's chocolates. This very helpful young woman takes orders Wednesday through Friday mornings and recommended calling Wednesday morning (France time) to place an order!

L'Alphabet des Saveurs that we received were wonderful. My mother particularly enjoyed the “&”, a caramel and salted butter with black chocolate and ginger. She advises simply placing the chocolate on your tongue so that it will slowly melt, allowing you to "savor every bit of the flavor." My daughter loved the Caramel (C) and the Liquorice (S). My brother had too many favorites to mention--the first one he tasted was a Vanilla (D) to which he exclaimed, "WOW...very good...I'll have another!" Like my brother, my husband loves too many to mention although I will reveal that he always chooses Guyane (G), Gold Square (A), and the seasonal punctuation marks.


For me, there is not a Joël Durand chocolate that I would not enjoy. I do love the Caramel (C) and the Coffee (K) and every seasonal punctuation mark that's ever crossed my lips. The chocolates are rich and yet not heavy. Durand's herbal, floral, and spice infused fillings are delicate--they provide the perfect balance to the chocolate covering. I have never met a Joël Durand Alphabet of Flavour that I did not like!

The next time you are in Provence, St. Remy is definitely worth a visit. I especially recommend the Wednesday market and a visit to Saint-Paul Hospital where Vincent van Gogh was hospitalized in the late 19th century for psychiatric treatment and where he painted some of his most famous paintings. Les Baux-de-Provence, olive oil, santons, and wine tasting are all nearby. But, most importantly, stop by Joël Durand's chocolate shop.

By the way, with Valentine's Day around the corner, you may want to know that orders should be placed by February 8 to ensure a February 14 delivery.  Those delectable squares of chocolates are a wonderful way to mark any occasion.

Joël Durand Chocolatier
3, Bd Victor-Hugo
Saint-Remy-de-Provence
011-33-4-90-92-38-25 (telephone, from the States)
www.joel-durand-chocolatier.fr

Sunday, January 22, 2012

MY FAVORITE CHOCOLATIER IN PROVENCE

First of two-part article
L'Alphabet des Saveurs chocolates  Photo: 1j2M

Some of the best chocolates in the world hail from France. In Paris, I think of La Maison de Chocolat, JP Hévin, La Durée, Michel Chaudun. But it is to Provence that I would head for my favorite: the best chocolate in the region is made by Joël Durand in the small village of Saint-Remy-de-Provence.


We visited this alluring chocolate shop this past August. The number of times we have been drawn to Monsieur Durand's chocolate shop has long passed double digits. This time we were en route from Lourmarin, the Luberon village we have called our own for many years, to Arles...but the car knew where we really wanted to go.

We headed toward Boulevard Victor-Hugo, near the Place du Marché. The little shop is unassuming--one could easily pass by. But, with so many articles and accolades about this man and his chocolate, I suspect that...

Sunday, January 15, 2012

LONGING FOR BLACK TRUFFLES, CONSOLED BY FRAGRANT MEMORIES AND PATRICIA WELLS’ "SIMPLY TRUFFLES"

The Mass for the Truffles in Richerenches

Today is the third Sunday in January, otherwise known as “The Mass for the Truffles” in Richerenches: the annual blessing, auction, and feast of the black truffle. We’ve been there, huddled among the masses in the tiny church to witness baskets of black diamonds offered up to be blessed, walked with the parade of people to the Hôtel de Ville where our successful bids put several truffles in our pockets, and relished in the glory of a lavish meal devoted to the beloved Tuber melanosporum.

I wish I were there now. But, alas, I am content with the memory of that chilly January day several years ago and consoled—okay, I am trying—by the scent of truffle wafting out from my kitchen where my husband is preparing our version of Patricia Well’s “Artichoke Soup with Parmesan and Truffles” and her “Spaghetti with Parmesan and Truffle Butter,” neither of which will actually have the benefit of a French black truffle, the absence of which explains why I must put an element of effort into consoling myself. But, I am getting ahead of myself….At least I have a lovely and very informative new cookbook on the subject and know that a delicious meal is imminent!


Patricia Wells Library chez nous

Patricia Wells, famed cook and cooking teacher of French food, particularly that which hails from Provence, and author of a dozen cookbooks on that cuisine, many of which line the shelves of my bookcase, has written a new cook book: Simply Truffles.

Simply Truffles, Patricia Wells' latest cookbook

The full title of Ms. Wells’ new book aptly continues: Recipes and Stories that Capture the Essence of the Black Diamond. It is not surprising that she begins her...

Sunday, January 8, 2012

NINE NEW BELLS TO BE INSTALLED IN NOTRE-DAME DE PARIS: WHAT WOULD QUASIMODO SAY?

Artwork by our daughter at age 11


Paris’ famous Cathedral of Notre-Dame is about to celebrate its 850th anniversary. In anticipation of this major event, and amidst some controversy, the four bells located at the top of the North Tower—christened, as is the custom for all sacred objects, Angélique-Françoise, Antoinette-Charlotte, Hyacinthe-Jeanne, and Denise-David—will soon be removed, melted down and replaced.

These four bells were cast in 1856, per the request of Napoleon III who wanted them to mark the occasion of his son’s baptism, and have rung every 15 minutes since then.

As part of a $3.5 million project (that will also renovate the cathedral’s vast lighting system and famous organ), the bells will be silenced. They will be replaced by nine new bells that will be cast in the same weight and size as the original 17th century bells. Remarkably, they will be designed to create the same sound as those 17th century bells. According to the New York Times (October 18, 2011), the sound will have “a deeper resonance and a lower tone than [that heard] today.”

Our dog Pal visits Notre-Dame in 2002
The controversy pits purists in one field against those of another: historic artifact versus authentic sound. The first group contends that the bells should be kept in place because they have rung out on all significant historic events—the coronation of kings, the funerals of important French officials, the end of the two World Wars, and to honor those who died on September 11, 2001.

The latter group argues that bells, cast of low-quality metal, are now worn out and out of tune; replacing them with new bells will...

Saturday, December 31, 2011

ADAM GOPNIK IS RIGHT: THE TABLE COMES FIRST



As I write this week’s post, 2011 is about to roll into 2012 and I am reflecting on all the wonderful times I have had around the table this year and in years past.   Adam Gopnik’s book does this to you.  I highly recommend “The Table Comes First: Family, France, and the Meaning of Food.” I might add that I “listened” to much of the book, which I particularly enjoyed because Mr. Gopnik narrates the audio book himself.  Until you can get your hands on the book, I leave you with some of my favorite quotes from “The Table Comes First” at the end of this post.

Adam Gopnik, who gave us “From Paris to the Moon” and regularly writes for The New Yorker, has just written a new book, “The Table Comes First: Family, France, and the Meaning of Food.”  It is a jewel of a book about two of my favorite topics—food and France—and the pivotal role that sitting ’round the table with family, friends, lovers and even our enemies plays in our lives.  


Although the book is in large part about the food on the table, it really centers on what happens around the table.” The table, according to Mr. Gopnik, is the scene of celebration and solemnity, negotiations and debate, beginnings and endings.   Mr. Gopnik’s story starts...